The Ever-Evolving Wallet

Surprisingly, the very first wallets weren’t for men, but for women. Early bags, called pockets, were popular during the Middle Ages. Women wore these pockets on a cord around the waist but underneath the skirt. For men, pockets sewn into garments served the same purpose.

Pockets began to be worn outside the skirt or gown, in plain view, and became a fashion accessory. While pockets were important for women to hold and carry items such as smelling salts and sewing particulars, they never were intended to carry money. In the 18th century, when women began carrying currency, the pocketbook became popular. This was a flat, envelope-shaped bag, usually linen with a fold-over flap — and in essence, the earliest form of today's wallet.

Wallets are still function-driven accessories, but their fashion aspect has certainly undergone significant changes over the years as wallets have become available in all shapes, colors, and designs. Leathers used in wallet fabrication can range from alligator-embossed calfskin to vegetable-tanned leathers with a hand-rubbed finish. Other fabrics, such as nylons and water- and stain-resistant twills, are also popular, especially for “unstructured” wallet.

Functionally, modern wallets do more than hold a few coins and bills. The average consumer’s growing collection of credit, ATM and club cards requires wallets designed to organize and secure these important items. A list of manufacturers and retailers of wallets and small leather goods is available from the Travel Goods Association, Garrett Lai at garrett@travel-goods.org.